But that in the first case, a bump is visible in the center. Although, given that StepCam was created exclusively for milling and reaming boards, the result is not bad. Although it’s probably still worth attaching a detailed assembly video We need the fifth option Weight: 7.5kg
And assemble the case
Put everything on the floor, take a screwdriver
Done, now you need to select the desired type of processing. I caught the angle so that the lines began to cast at least a little
When you fix the board, note that in the lower left corner under the nut there will be two tracks, and if you overdo it, you can short them out.
So it is quite possible to work with such a set
By the way, amusing acrylic clamps, I used them to clamp workpieces up to 20mm high
Select the parameters so that only the areas we need are filled
Cutters with different markings, but they look identical It is more convenient for me to set it in the center, then it is enough to find the center of the bar and calibrate according to it To do this, we need any graphics editor, the same Paint will do, the main thing is that the picture or text be monochrome. Adapter output: 24V 4A
Next, download the free StepCam program, open our picture, set up basic processing parameters, such as the speed of passage and maximum depth, wait until the progress bar is filled and save the code with the corresponding button Model: Mini CNC3018
First type: milling along the contour, the inner filling is ignored, we set the desired depth, the tool Body material: Aluminum alloy
What is in the second. To begin with, we create a project, set the size of our "blank" and the zero point.
The basis is grblControl_0.8.1, this program is a machine control panel and it is she who gives commands to the machine nodes. I settled on the Vectric Aspire. Spindle motor: 775(12-36V); 24V: 7000rpm, 36V: 9000rpm Seriously, I assembled the first printer for half a day and twisted it for several days, but I launched the monitored machine a few hours after opening the box.
Move the spindle up and to the right, reset the work area and send it to work.
The result is similar to a notch with the same parameters.
The power supply is closer On the lot page there is a link with everything you need to get started Laying the board in the program, exporting the sawn tracks Image to Gcode can "squeeze out" black and white images in grayscale, but it’s quite difficult to properly prepare a detailed relief. It is convenient that after the job is completed, the current coordinates and "zeros" are not reset, so that subsequent manipulations can be performed without recalibration, except to correct the Z axis if the second cutter has a different length. So much so that it’s easier to use more complex software.
Select the one you need, use the buttons on the control panel to bring the tip of the cutter to the zero point, that is, to the lower left corner of the workpiece touching the surface and reset the coordinates along the axes X,Y and Z, after which we press the send button. Adapter supply voltage: 110-240V 50/60Hz
There are detailed instructions in the kit, but even without it it is difficult to assemble the structure otherwise, because There are only three profile sizes, and two of them are presented in duplicate. A little practice.
The background also sinks, but literally by a tenth of a millimeter, so you can simply lift the engraver slightly above the surface before zeroing.
Next, milling the notch, the settings differ a little There is nothing complicated in this, you do not need to transfer pins of steppers or download other software, it is enough to correct the data in memory through the console. Working area: 340x160x40mm
CNC engraver 3018
The program works with any black and white images, but the rendering takes a long time, for example, it took about 10 minutes to process this inscription. Motor Shaft: 5mm The program is heavily paid, but there is a trial version, so you can try it and decide whether you need it or not. Brown box In general, engraving a picture or an inscription is easier here. Space required: approx. 340x160mm
The upper part is covered with foam
Nevertheless, we can already do the first test, because. there are ready-made templates in the archive
Load it into the grblControl and get the following preliminary result I hope it won’t be boring =) Color: Silver
Third mode: Cone/ Engraving, unlike Cutting, you cannot set several passes here, everything is done in one to the specified depth, so I use it mainly for cutting thin workpieces
And we get the outline of the picture
This is what I ended up with after a complete assembly, if you have more parts, check if everything is in place
Although the picture is not very good
for example Control program : GrblControl Tolerably test on cardboard
During the assembly of the X axis mechanism, I fixed one of the complete cutters and lowered the carriage almost flush with the table surface. Stepper motors: 42 steps, 12V, 1.3A, 0.25Nm In this review, I will try to prove that everyone can cope with management, we will analyze possible problems and ways to solve https://jiji.com.et/smart-watches/white them, and also look at the results of the work.
Well, a prism can come in handy Hello everyone! After playing enough with 3D printers, I began to stare at CNC machines and it turned out that their logic is much simpler, which cannot be said from existing reviews.
It’s good that I didn’t leave much headroom below the table surface
True, in the second everything is in inches, so the result is a little different
In this case, the contour is recessed
At least the engraving will not cause any problems, and SepCam will also Spring Layout works great (initially they did it for it).
Running in grblControl Supported operating systems: Windows XP SP3, Win7, Win8, Win10. The pass is mirrored and instead of raising the cutter, the machine sinks it
If you wish, you can also unload the reaming The drawing will need to be saved in BMP format
Both programs build a height map using grayscale, where white is the highest point, and black is the lowest
Judging by the behavior, we need to invert the X< /b> and Z. To prevent this from happening, use the fifth plastic washer from the kit, it is not a spare. I often use these
Under it is foam rubber with cutouts, all components are neatly laid out in their places
And we get a similar result in 10
If you managed to scribble a test model, you can try and throw something yourself It’s like a Repetier without modules for slicing in 3D printing There is another option, Image to Gcode, which works in a similar way, but is somewhat faster and includes a full editor. The command $3: It is more convenient to work with thin material, but you can not be perverted like that, the main thing is that when the spindle is fully lowered, the cutter does not start picking the table, because. this is fraught with consequences.
Drag the image we need and click on vectorize
Open this file after milling, change the tool and send it to work. We create a workspace, write/draw, click "Convert to G-Code", enter the task parameters
The process started, but somehow not right.
Actually, it’s easier than drawing an owl